Last edited by matthew1 on Thu Dec 24, pm, edited 1 time in total. Reason: spoolinperformance. Thanks for the post, I'll be following this. Click that when you go to buy something on Amazon and MVS gets a kickback. Anyways, lookie what showed up! Piping guy called and said the pipes and all the misc connectors were delivered to the shop that we're installing it at so once I figure out when we have an evening this week or next free, install will go down.
Post by Auburn T5 » Fri Aug 10, pm It took about 6 hours of sort of figuring stuff out as I went along but everything came together nicely and everything is running great. Referring back to the other picturs I posted, the only things not pictured that were needed were a few extra T bolt clamps and a 2.
I thought it was 2. It's working but not holding tight on the TB more on that later Also not pictured is one of those little aluminum nipples that would be welded to the piping right at the throttle body inlet for the air idle control hose to plug into. The hole was a little too small to screw the brass fitting in so I used a dremel grinding stone to lightly grind a little bit more out. Just enough to screw the brass fitting in. It was extremely tight but not wanting to take any chances, I coated both the inside joint and outside where the brass fitting screws in with a couple of layers of JB weld.
It doesn't look too pretty but it will do until I can get an aluminum nipple to have welded on in place of the brass fitting. So when you're ordering your piping, try and get the aluminum nipple piece to weld onto the pipe to save yourself that headache.
It wasn't hard just a lot of work. Anyways, moving along The bumper removal was easy. Drilled out the 4 rivets holding the wheel well liner to the back of the bumper.
Next I removed the splash guard. After that, I used a torx bit to remove all the screws holding a second plastic guard piece to the bumper. After that, there will be 2 large bolts to remove. It uses I think a 15mm socket. They're the only ones that big so they're hard to miss. Mine put up a fight so I had to pop out the plastic pieces in the bumper that are next to the fog lights and use a breaker bar to break them loose. I was rewarded by tons of the most disgusting rusty muddy sludge water pouring out of the bolt hole as I loosened the bolt.
I recommend sitting on teh ground in front of the bumper when doing this and having a towel below the bumper in case this happens to you. So after those bolts were removed, and the fog lights are unplugged the bumper slides straight off. If it doesn't come off, you probably missed a couple of torx screws.
After this is done, remove all the factory intercooler piping along with the snorkel that connects the air box to the air inlet at the front of the air dam. At this point, the battery needs to be removed. Following that, there are 2 large screws holding the battery tray to the frame and 2 smaller screws on the top of the battery tray holding the cruise control module.
Remove these and the cruise control module under the battery tray can be removed. Unplug it's power connector and vacuum line and set it aside. Now, for the air pump, it's no secret that it has to be removed from it's factory location in order for the cold side of the IC piping to get to the throttle body so before I decided whether or not to totally remove it or leave it, I unbolted it and moved it up to where the battery tray used to be.
In this pic, one of the bolts holding it to the frame is partially out and the bolt just above it is the 2nd one. Remove both of these to free the air pump. The final obstacle is the tow hook. This had to be removed to get the hot side of the piping around the black AC canister and up to the turbo so we used a plasma cutter to eat through it.
It can probably be done with a reciprocating saw sawzall or even a dremel but the metal in the hook is extremely strong and would take forever with a dremel. So if you know of any shops most exhaust shops that you cold drive the car to and have them cut the hook off, it will save you a lot of time.
Once this was out of the way, it was time to mount the intercooler. I'm not sure if all the cars have them or not but there are 3 screw holes in the frame right where the IC is mounted that I was able to thread a couple of zip ties through drilled a hole in each mounting bracket on the intercooler and get an easy mock up location for the IC.
Now it was time to start playing with the IC piping to see what would need to be done. At first, it may seem like there isn't enough piping but as Mark BlackT5 on the volvospeed forums said, the pipes can really only go one way and going that one route from turbo to throttle body, it WILL be enough piping unless you screw up so pay attention as I explain where the pipes were cut. The first pipe connecting to the turbo, I cut about 2 or 3 inches off the end so that it didn't sit so high over the engine.
The hood wouldn't close all the way with it sitting that high so I had to remove enough to let the hood close but not so much so that it laid down on the engine.
I made these cuts last becuase I started running the pipes from the intercooler. I cut it in half directly in the center of the bend becuase that U has to be extended out wider to wrap around the black AC canister I have no idea what it's technically called but I'm sure someone will enlighten me. Seeing as to how Sam was busy getting his car ready for the SE turbo bricks meet that starts in about 6 hours, he didn't have time to weld up a piece of the extra pipe that was cut from the other pieces into that U to extend it out so I used a silicone coupler.
It got the job done until we have a free weekend to weld a lot of these together. Location Thousand Oaks Ca Car s your mom. MKvUltra said:. Don't take my post as a hate thread. I like what EJ puts out. The piping was fine and dandy. The FMIC was also fine fitment wise. It's just the silicone hoses that were pissing us off.
Wrath Ready to race! Monkeykungfu Go Kart Champion. Damn, it's a hotass mofo in TX these days. You guys got that done in the sun?!? HoldDaMayo Leaner and Meaner. I had one or two pieces that could have used a longer silicon for with my stg 3 eurojet FMIC If you thought the OEM fitting was a bit of an annoying install, imagine doing all the piping, it sucked!!!
But the end result is quite good, over a year installed on my GTI and only problem was one coupler coming off because I didn't get the clamp over the hump in the pipe Turb0matic Ready to race! Location Orlando. Man those are nice brakes! Oh the front mount too :wink:. As well as there Turbo-back exhaust.. Glad to see you finally being able to get some stuff done on her!!
Start new topic. Prev 1 2 Next Page 1 of 2. Recommended Posts. Gideon35T Posted March 6, Posted March 6, PS - I am very aware that my car has hood pins - And the hole in the ECU cover is for an aftermarket cooling fan In two weeks the car gets a freshly rebuilt 16T and a retune :. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options After a couple days of giving the car some time to adjust I could def tell that it through the car for a loop I'm lovin it Throttle response is much crisper, power curve is smoother, pulls MUCH harder from 3.
Posted March 7, Would be interested in close up pictures of the inside piping arrangement.
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