Production of NexGen Plans. Sequence of Plans Preparation. Estimated Quantities Report. Roadway Plans Set. Key Sheet and Signature Sheet. Typical Sections. General Notes. Roadway Plan-Profile. Drainage Structures. Stormwater Facilities. Drainage Map. Soil Survey - May Temporary Traffic Control Plan - May The difference in weight really is noticeable, though!
Like you, I find that I could do without the f22, and not miss it. Thank you so much for taking time to explain to someone less informed! You definitely were of help. I had found this gem of a post some months ago, and since then I bought myself a used e which I love, but I also noticed that I my dad kep some old fd lenses.
I recently bought an adaptor to work with it, so please let me copy paste a message for another forum, in case you can help me! Again, thanx for the post!
It was a low cost investment so im not worried about what im asking you, since it didnt hit me hard on the wallet. In any case, I can clearly see that the lens is supposed to be macro only, but I was hoping after reading a LOT of stuff on legacy lens, as well as after checking the no1 comment on amazon reviews on the same page , that I could use this adapter on an old canon FD 50mm f1. Like a person 10 meters away from me.
I dont care about broad scene pics. I just mounted the adapter and then the lens, but unfortunately, I wasnt able to manually focus to a distance more than half a meter. I try adjusting it to 1. As is the aperture is not differentiating. Is it something I have to adjust pre-mounting? Cant I adjust it like manual focus does? Try holding the spring loaded one and moving the other one and you will hear a little click and it should work properly again.
If im confusing u I did see a you tube vid on reseting a fd lens. Personally I think the bokeh is unpleasant, but only just unpleasant so passable under non-critical circumstances. And at larger apertures the unpleasantness tends to be obscured in any case. A more expensive solution that fixes the bokeh is the Pentax 50mm f1. Also look into the previous version, the FL 50mm 1. But be aware that any lens with the radioactive Thorium glass will set all manner of alarm bells ringing very loudly at the airport if you select these lenses to take abroad.
I have not found this problem with the pre-AI lenses for my ancient Nikon F. For the past 15 years I took a plain prism F body 28mm f3. Room for films and a Filofax too for notes etc. There was a later version that seems more common. All in all for wide open the FD 50l1. I personally love the look these older Canon FD lenses provide. I am always blown away by the portraits I get using either of these gems.
And they are out there for very cheap indeed. Totally worth it. James Tocchio December 21, Share this post! All stories by:James Tocchio. December 21, at pm. James December 21, at pm.
You must use that on your EF? Rob Moses Photography December 22, at am. Looks pretty good! I want that Olympics lens cap!
James December 22, at am. Thanks for the tip. Randle P. McMurphy January 8, at pm. James January 8, at pm. McMurphy January 9, at am. Does this small lens give you the best bang for your buck? As far as I know there are roughly three versions of this lens which are optically the same version 1 and 2 can be split up as well but differences are minimal , the main difference can be found in the number of aperture blades Version 1 has 6, the others 5 , the build quality and mounting system.
All three versions are coated with the S. The first version features 6 aperture blades and seems to be build to much higher standards than the last version. You can recognize the first version by its chrome nose, this version features the breech lock mounting system.
The second version is a bit lighter than the first version and only features 5 aperture blades. This version works with the breech lock system as well. The third version is much lighter due to the use of much plastic, this version feels very cheap compared to the other versions of this lens, or compared to other 50mm lenses from the same period. The third version does Fortunately! More information can be found here.
The lens is mainly made from plastics in combination with metal and glass. All markings are engraved and filled with paint. Due to the extensive use of plastics the lens feels very light but also a bit cheap. The aperture ring sits at the base of the lens and is made from plastics. The aperture ring has a high resistance and feels cheap. The plastic focus ring is knurled and easy too find.
In comparison with other manual lenses from the same era the Canon nFD 1. At infinity vignetting is high with 2. A well centered sample might perform a little bit better or worse in the extreme corners. Wide open the center looks already quite good but contrast is low and there is some glow. The midframe is a different story and looks very bad. The corners show quite good resolution from wide open but contrast is very low and there is some spherical aberration. The corners look a bit better than the midframe.
The midframe and corners improve a bit, but not nearly as much as the center. The corners still look a bit better than the midframe although corners show lower contrast. Now for the first time the midframe looks better than the corners.
At typical portrait distances the Canon 1. The center looks OK from wide open with some glow caused by spherical aberrations. At fl2. The corners have slightly higher resolution than the midframe but also suffer from spherical aberrations and low contrast.
In terms of real use it means that you can place your subject in the center of the frame without any problems, even for somewhat larger prints. Wide open, with the subject in the midframe images are still fine for web use and small prints. At the minimal focusing distance things look much better.
The center and midframe look decent from wide open, despite some glow. At slightly longer distances, like for example for a shoulder portrait bokeh starts to get more nervous. Especially towards the corners there is quite some outlining and bokeh fringing.
See a worse case scenario below. LaCA Later chromatic aberrations are corrected very well, I could not spot any! Distortion There is a very little barrel distortion which can be corrected easily when needed.
As corner resolution wide open is pretty bad stopping down is needed anyway. The Canon FD 1. This is clearly visible in the less than mediocre flare resistance. Even city lights cause significant ghosting as can be seen in the sunstar section. Both lenses are made very well and are a joy to handle. Both are very vulnerable to lens flares. Sony 1.
The Sony is optically better in most regards. If you depend on AF and your budget is low, this one might be an option. Sony ZA 1. Bokeh of the Sony ZA is much smoother but you can encounter onionrings from time to time. Pentacon 1. The Pentacon isa bit nicer to handle.
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